Building a Pirate Ship - Part 3

Part 3:

Creating the forecastle.

In part two, I showed you how to add the stern and how to prepare the quarterdeck section for the removeable quarterdeck.

In this installment, I will step you through the process of adding the forecastle, bowspar, creating the removeable quarterdeck and finsihing up with the post support for the main mast.

As in part 1 & 2 you will begin with a completed picture of the pirate ship that this will be outlined in part 3.

Cutting the forecastle deck pattern:

Flaten a small piece of clay, make the thickness of this section about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. This is by far the thickest piece we will be cutting.

You may find that this piece does not fit the bow area perfectly. The extra thickness will allow you to mold it into the area, creating a forecastle deck area large enought for one of two 25mm figures.

=> You will note in later pictures, I often use a "test" figure to help keep the model in perspective. I also use a 1:72 scale deck gun, to help align the gun ports.


Place the forecastle deck:

Align the forecastle deck in the prow of the ship. You will notice that in front of the deck piece is small open space. You will recall in part one, this the area you had placed an extra ball of clay to fill in and streghten the bow of the ship.

=> The deck should be slightly below the edge of the ship gunwale/side.


Use a flat, square tipped tool, to adhere the clay to the main deck. You will notice that while bonding the clay, I have created an underscored area below the deck. This will be the bulkhead area of the forecastle deck. Also work the seams, and blend the clay from the deck into the sides of the ship. Add beads of clay as needed.

=> Optional: I will often add a bulkhead door, below the forecastle deck, assuming the deck is thick enought. With this ship however, I have not added this feature, since I have added the foremast support in this location instead. If you would like to add a door, just make your forecastle deck an extra 3/4 inch wide and insert the bow support on top of the forecastle deck.


Adding the bow spar:

It is now time to add the first of many wood piece parts to the ship. I have selected a doll rod 5/16" in diameter that is 6 inches long. I have tapered the doll rod on one end, however this is very tedious work, shaving and sanding the tapered doll rod. You can also purchase tapered doll rods to save time and effort if you must.

Insert the bow spar along the prow, and push the end at least 1/2 inch into the clay of the forecastle deck.

Installing a Spar deck:

To help ensure the removable bow spar is strong enough to support the spar, and last for many years, I have added a spar deck.

Cut a small elongated trapezoid shaped deck, approximately 1/2 inch in thickness and about 3/4 inch wide.

This small spar deck will allow you to place a forward lookout, while providing the much needed support for the bow spar.



Installing the foremast support:

Cut a small square, tapered on the side and front and flat across the back. The flat side will be bonded to the forecastle deck.

This is going to support the foremast, so it must be at least 3/4 inch square, and about 3/4 to an 1 inch thick.

=> Bigger is not always better, so keep the post reasonable sized. We are going to add wood later to help strengthen this piece.

Tool the foremast support:

Use a flat, square ended tool to secure and bond the piece to the main deck.

Then blend the piece into the bulkhead of the forecastle deck. Try to keep the support piece larger at the base.

Again, we will add wood supports to this piece later, however make sure you keep the piece large enough to have a 5/16 inch doll rod inserted for the foremast.

Cutting the Quarter Deck and bulkhead:

Flatten a piece of clay, keeping the thickness about 1/2 inch. Make this piece large enough to not only cut to the two pieces show, but also enough to cut two additional side pieces.

The main deck is a trapezoid shown above, with the bulkhead below, marked in the picture as the "Qtr Deck face". You will notice my pattern is too small. This is in part, is because my ship is wider then the sloop/schooner pattern I used to cut the main deck. Also in part, since as you tool, flatten and work the clay, it tends to stretch. This is ok, since the extra main deck space is useful if you plan to use the ship with figures for gaming.

Building the removeable quarterdeck:

Place the bulkhead piece face down, and connect the piece to the quarterdeck. Use a round flat tool (my favority tool) to blend the clay together. This is the inside, so do not hesitate to add an extra bead of clay if you must to help connect these two pieces.

Keep the deck at a nice 90 degree angle to the bulkhead face, working the clay seam to ensure a nice clean fit.

Also blend the outside seam on the face of the bulkhead, to ensure a nice smooth finish.

Cut the side bulkheads:

Cut out two lengths of of clay for the side. You will need to measure the width. You can test fit the piece and trim the edge as needed to match the sides with the face.

The sides will be placed with the quarterdeck face down on the work surface. Use your tools to blend the seam, both inside and outside.

Add a bead of clay inside:

I have opted to add a bead of clay along the inside seam on this piece. Since the inside is not seen, the strenght of the piece is more important then how the piece looks inside.

This will help bond all the seams. Notice that I have added a bead of clay on both the horizontal and vertical seams.

Use your tools to blend the bead into the deck and bulkhead surfaces.

Install the removeable Quarterdeck:

Place the removeable quarterdeck at teh stern of the ship. As needed, trim and form the deck to ensure that it fits into place.

The seam between the stern, quarterdeck piece and the removebale quarterdeck should be flush. It does not however need to be a tight fit, since this deck needs to remain independant of the rest of ship.

As we work details into the ship, this piece will be removed and installed several times. You may notice that I have belvel cut the two front corners of the piece. This is done to allow the steps to be placed, and it also forms a "key" type match of the removeable quarterdeck onto the ship deck. Once the steps are build, I had to make many adjustments to ensure the correct fit. If the "key" shape of teh belved deck and steps do not fit properly, the removeable deck will not be removeable.

=> I would suggest to keep the face of your removeable quarterdeck piece flat. It will make it easier to fit the removeable pieces later. The belve looks great, yet it can be a trouble area that can be easiliy avoided.

Installing the Main mast support:

Make a ball of clay, a little smaller than a golf ball. Then cut out a 1 inch thick trapezoid shaped support post. Notice that the post is wider at the top and larger at the bottom.

Also I have made this support post about 1-1/2 inches wide by about 1 inch depth, by at least 1 inch tall at teh base.

This support post is going to be for the main mast, and later I will show you how to add wood support to help strengthen the support piece.

Tooling the Main mast support:

Before you place the support piece, I have "roughed up" the underside of the piece with a saw tooth exacto blade. This helps the the piece bond tot he main deck. Since this piece MUST adhear firmly tot he main deck, the rough underside surface will help hold the piece in place.

Use the center lines on the main deck to help place the support post in the correct location.

Use a flat, square edged tool to blend the clay from the post onto the main deck. I have not added a bead, however if you need a bead do so to help blend the post to the deck. This piece needs to be strong, since it will support the main mast, which will be removed and placed many times over the life of the model.

=> Again, later I will show how to add extra wood to support this piece, yet the clay alone should be strong enough to support the main mast.

Concluding part 3:

• This will conclude Step THREE of how to build a pirate ship by hand. Below you can see that the model is finally taking shape and starting to look like a ship. The grid lines on my work surface are 1/2 inch squares. So you can see that the ship is 13 inches bow to stern, plus 3-1/2 inches of bow spar extension at the prow. Once you place the rudder this ship will measure 17 inches by about 6-1/2 inches at the widest point. By approxiamte scale, this would make our ship about a 100 to 110 foot in length. Not bad for a fast and manuverable pirate ship.

In the next installment, I will demostrate how to add the gun ports and how to add steps that lead up from the main deck to the quaterdeck.

• By the way, if at any point you need a few extra tips on the build, drop me a line or post comment and I will address your questions. The purpose of this tutorial is for YOU to learn the steps needed to create your own pirate ship. As with any instruction, when in doubt, just ask a question.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 2

Part 2:

Building the Stern, and quarterdeck.

In the first part, I showed you how to begin your pirate ship project, with basic art supplies, tools, and materials needed. In addition I went on to explain how to cut the patterns for the hull and gunwales.

In this installment, I will step you through the process of adding the stern and preparing the quarter deck. One step at a time, and you will be able to create you own pirate ship.

Tooling the ship:
Select a tool that meets your needs. In this case, I have selected a flat tool with a rounded end. I find that even though I have dozens of tool, I tend to use on a selected few for most projects. Pick out a few that you like, and keep these aside from the rest. This will save time and it will help you become proficient as you learn to use each of these selected tools. As you learn to effectively use each specialised tool, your crafting skills will improve.

Using the flat, rounded end, I will run the tool at an angle along the bottom edge. As you guide the tool, small shavings of clay will be removed. Be carful not to dig into the seam and remove too much. Most of the tooling will be smoothing the clay over.

Continue to work the edge on both sides, taking care at the bow as you shape the smooth curves of your ship. The purpose of this step is to form a seamless bond along the base of the sides, and removing any excess clay that would form lumps on the sides of the ship.

=> Use your center line while working the edge to keep the shape of the hull symmetrical.

Smooth the bottom:
Carefully flip the ship over. If the clay has bonded to your working surface, use a flat putty blade, or very thin (dull) knife to gently remove the clay. Be careful not to cut into the bottom.

With the same flat rounded tool used above, gently smooth the bottom seam. I like to use a brush stroke like movement, blending at a 45-degree angle to the seam. Make sure you smooth the entire edge, then return the ship upright.

Add clay as needed:
I find that certain areas require a dab of clay to reinforce the ship. By adding a small ball of clay into the bow for example, I help strengthen the bond formed at the prow of the ship.

Work the clay into the seam, and smooth the edges until you form a nice even surface in the bow of the ship.
This area will later be covered by the forecastle deck, however the extra clay will help hold the model together.

Cutting pieces for the Stern:
Flatten the clay with your rolling pin, this time keeping the clay about 5/8" inch thick. The two pieces shown to the left are the stern, and a small piece of the quarter deck that will be used to bond the stern to the quarterdeck.

=> This small portion of the quarterdeck is later used to mount the ships wheel.

• The quarter deck itself is going to be a removeable piece, so it will be built independantly in a later installment.

Assemble the Stern:

The pattern for the stern was also folded in half to help form a center line on the clay piece. This center line is then used to match up the main deck with the stern piece.

As you match up the stern, gently pinch the two pieces together. Take care not to pinch too hard, you do not want to damage the shape of the gunwale or the stern pieces.

=> Use a heavy card stock for your patterns, it helps ensure they will last for more than one ship. Notice the center line on the hull, formed by pressing the center fold in the card stock pattern into the clay.

Smooth out the Stern:

From the inside, you will then bond the two peices together using a flat tool. In this case, I have blended the clay starting from the gunwale and blending the clay onto the stern piece. This will be the first step in forming a seamless bond, which will hold the two pieces together.

=> This is an area that I would suggest you add some clay to help strengthen the bond.

Adding a bead of clay:
Roll up a bead of clay that will be used to along the seam formed between the main deck, the two gunwales and the stern.

With your fingers first then with your tools, work this bead into the seam.

You will want to blend the bead onto the main deck, the two gunwales and onto the stern piece to form a smooth bond.

It is critical to thouroughly work these seams together, this bonds the clay, stregthening the overall model.

=> Add a second bead as needed.

Shape the Stern:

With a flat tool, from the stern to make it appear that it was built with two separate pieces. You will note that I have pushed the bottom of the stern, squaring it off in the aft section.

In addition, I have pinched the bottom edge and the two edges that bond the gunwale/side together to form a "squared" stern.

Later you will add the rudder enclosure, and detail the stern section. For now just make sure it is rounded on top, and squared off on the bottom section of the stern.

Preparing the Quarterdeck:

Add the small 1/2 rounded piece of the quarterdeck. You will notice in the background the pattern for this 1/2 rounded quarterdeck section, in addition to the quarterdeck pattern, and bulkhead pattern.

Smooth the 1/2 rounded piece into the rounded section of the stern, and blend the seam into the two gunwale/sides.

Also use your tools to bond the underside of the this 1/2 rounded section. Since it will be hidden from view, I suggest you add a bead of clay and work it into the seam underneath the quarterdeck section.

Concluding part 2:

Your ship is now prepared to add the removable quarterdeck, which will be outlined in the next installment.

You will notice how the stern has a nice rounded shape, and the small section of the quarterdeck is squared off.

As you form the quarterdeck section, you will custom build the pieces to match this shape.

For now this concludes part TWO of the Pirate Ship build.

In the next installment I will illustrate how to build the removable Quarterdeck section.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 1

Building a pirate ship by hand.

Introduction:

Steven R. Covey coined the phrase, "start with the end in mind". Very solid advice to build upon, from a wise and scholared man.

The "end" in this case will be a completed Pirate Ship of your own design, built by scratch with your own hands.

So what shall you do if you are still pondoring how to begin, without a clear picture in your minds eye of the "end" goal?

Well, that is precisly what I intend to answer. In order to help you "start with the end in mind" I have provide a picture of the completed Pirate ship project. With this picture, you will now be able to visualize the end. Then you can walk with me as we work together toward the training and instruction that will guide you on the path of creating your very own hand crafted pirate ship. It is now time to roll back the clock, and start a step by step tutorial so that you can begin to build a pirate ship of your own design.

Part 1:

Start with the end in mind.

The ship that I have selected is named "De Wolven", or translated, "The Wolves". This ship is the Sixty First (LXI) ship in my collection. Most of my previous creations have been built by request for private collectors. In addition to the ships that I have sold, several are kept for my own personal collection. My studio office and game room have shelves lined with my fleet of ships, which are used for both display and historical pirate gaming.

De Wolven is a 2-mast Brig, square rigged, with a total of 8-gun ports and a removeable quarter deck that opens to reveal the captains quarters. De Wolven is equiped with up to four swivel/volley guns, two fore and two aft. In addition the sails are rigged red and black to add color contrast. The sails are made of imported Italian canvas, with orginal artwork designs to add the collectible touch to the ship. The ship is 25/28mm scale (or 1:72 to 1:76 scale) and will hold 10-12 figures on the deck, plus deck guns.

With time, and hard work, you CAN build your own pirate ships. Follow along and I will step you through the process.

Getting Started:
First you will need some basic art supplies.

• Various sculpting tools, dental tools, or assorted gadgets.
• Large rolling pin, and exacto knife or kit.
• A small saw blade, contained within the exacto kit.
• Sculpting clay, and a work surface.
• Wood doll rods and skewers of various sizes.
• Canvas for the sails and 110lbs card stock paper for patterns.

I have found that the Super Sculpey brand is an excellent material. It is high quality beige-pink clay that is very workable for modeling and tooling. Once baked in a conventional household oven, it is very strong, and is chip and shatter resistant. It can even be drilled as needed to add any miscellaneous parts. I however prefer to add most of the add-on details, wood dolls, masts, etc. before baking.

Super Sculpey gives a ceramic like finish and takes acrylic paints very well. After a quick primer, you will find that the clay holds the fine details with amazing clarity.
You can pick up all the items you need at your local art store, my preference is to shop at Dick Blick Art supplies, the pricing is fair and they offer coupons for frequent shoppers. It helps that I have one close by too.

Ships Plans:

Begin the build with a set of plans for your ship. For me I only use a few basic patterns, then I create as built parts with clay as I go. In time, I will make a full set of detailed ship plans that can be shared in a PDF format, then printed.

The plans shown to the left are of the hull, gunwale or sides, the stern, quarter deck and bulkhead, and the small forecastle deck.
=> Most other parts must be as built for size and shape as you go.


Cutting the patterns:

Use your large roller pin to flatten the clay. Keep the clay approximatley 1/2-inch thick for the main deck. Gunwales/sides will be the same or thicker.

As you flatten the clay, flip it over often to avoid it from sticking to the work surface, and to ensure you do not have air pockets trapped inside the clay.
=> Notice how the flatten clay is larger than the hull pattern.



The hull pattern has a center fold to help with alignment of the pieces. Flatten the patern on the clay, then use a flat cutting tool to trim the edges of the clay.

Follow this same step with the gunwale/sides. You will need to trace two side, one for the port and the other for the starboard sides of the ship.



For now, I will only cut the three main pieces, however the picture to the left shows the placement of the other pieces, which I will cut out later in the build.

I have found that as you work the clay the parts tend to expand a bit, so for this reason I hold off on cutting the quarter deck, and forecastle (forward) decks.

If you look closely, you can see the center line on the main hull and also you can see a center cross line as well.
=> Retrace these two lines as you work the clay for future reference.


Prepare the pieces for assembly:
Layout each of the two gunwale/sides. The picture to the right is the starboard (right) side of the ship. With the edge of the exacto knife handle, roll over the edge to flatten it.

This flatten edge will be used to form the main deck/hull with the two side of the ship. Notice how I am guiding the edge of the exacto handle and "pinching" the flatten edge to form a 1/2" inch boarder.
=> Do not flatten it too much, this will be used to bond the pieces.

Repeat the step above for the port (left) gunwale/side. Notice how I have placed the pieces, left and right next to the main deck/hull piece.

I find that arranging the pieces as they will be assembled, helps to visualize how the pieces will be placed together.

=> The flatten edges do not need to be perfectly straight.

Assemble the pieces:
Place the first side on the main deck/hull. Line up the flatten edge beginning at the stern (rear) of the ship.

The flatten edge will line up, assuming the edge and the hull are both about 1/2 inch thick.

Press the pieces together as you go, working the clay from the outside of the side/gunwale with your fingers.

Work your fingers along the edge from the outside, firmly pressing the side/gunwale into the main deck/hull piece to bond the two together.

Begin to form the ship:
As you place the second side/gunwale, working the edge as explained above, keep in mind the two bow pieces must meet.

You can form the bow of the ship by turning the two flat edges toward each other, then press them together. Pinch the two pieces together firmly.
=> You do not need to work the bow to much, we will tool it in much greater detail later in the build.

After both peices are formed together, revisit the edge by pressing firmly along the entire edge, port (left) and starboard (right). Work the edge from bow to stern and stern to bow repeatedly to ensure the pieces are bonded together.

Keep an eye on the shape, as you work the clay with your hands, meading and forming the pieces into your ship.
=> Remember to re-trace your center lines as needed.

Concluding part 1:

This concludes part ONE of how to build a Pirate ship. Stay tuned for the next installment, as we will being to "tool" the pieces, trimming any excess clay in some areas and adding clay to strengthen other areas.

• At this point, your ship is just beginning to take shape. Soon you be ready to add the stern bulkhead and quarter decks.

Good luck with your first steps into creating your own pirate ship and do not be too critical of yourself, art takes time and hours or patients. Your skill will come over time, with many trials and errors. So if the ship is NOT perfect, keep going forward. We have lots of time to work in the details and make it take shape.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/