Battlefield Hobbies

Pirates of the Ancient Worlds

2009-03-05T20:19:00.000-08:00

And now for something completely different....

Pirates of the Ancient Worlds

The following sculptures are islands in the theme of the classic novel, 20,000 Leagues under the sea.

The Islands are scaled for the Pirates of the Spanish Main game which is basically a 1/1000 scale collectible card game by Wizkids. A very well designed game with an ingenious "punch out ship" that is about the size of an average credit card.

This Island set is the first for 2009 in my collection for your viewing pleasure, and like most of my works are created on a commission basis for my valued clients.

Island CMI - 901

901: Set on the mountain top, the fortress is only accessible from a single winding staircase that cut up the side of the cliff face. The large central tower provides a clear view for miles. Easily defended with the many gun ports that line the fortress walls.

Island CMII - 902

902: This multi-tiered fort is build into the mountain side with an accessible dock at sea level. The upper level has gun ports facing to the four points of the compass. East and West towers watch the sea lanes, with the lower tower guarding the port.

Island CMIII - 903

903: The ancient ruins of a long forget people, that had built their city into the cliff face ages ago. The great tree of life has long since claimed the island with its roots enveloping the ancient ruins.

Island CMIV - 904

904: The citadel on the sea is renowned for its impregnable inner sanctuary. Well guarded and defended outer walls with many gun ports keep the citadel protected. A second higher walled inner fortress surrounds the sanctuary, in addition to the inner mote filled with water, which provides added security.

Island CMV - 905

905: The defended city-fort has gun ports in every direction and on each of the various levels. The open rooftop also allows the defenders to setup additional guns in times of need.

Island CMVI - 906

906: Power and purpose drive travelers to the temple fortress. The double thick walls provide protection for those needing safety from their enemies. While most travels are simply Pilgrims on a journey to the holy temple, which is covered with a magnificent brass dome.

Island CMVII - 907

907: The once mighty. It is said the wall and outpost was just one of many, along a line of sea defenses protecting a great empire. Taken by time and war, only this last outpost remains.

Island CMVIII - 908

908: This island retreat is the home of a wealthy merchant that has built his fortress to safeguard his riches. Small, yet easily defended with a lesser force, with her guns trained in all directions.

Island CMIX - 909

909: The ruins and watchtower of the past. Unknown secrets await the brave through the sea cavern entrance into this ancient ruins. The tower and the temple are all that remain to be seen, yet beneath the mountain dangers lurk.

Island CMX - 910

910: The Oracle rests upon the precarious edge of life and death as the molten lava pours out into the sea. Warriors travel to this forsaken island to gain wisdom in the oracles prophecy, yet only death meets many.

Island CMXI - 911

911: Built upon the white rocks called "Poseidon's fingers" by the locals, this secluded keep is know for the Great Hall of the ancients. It is said that the lost works of many great scholars are kept within the Hall, yet few are allowed entry. With amply guns to cover all approaches the keep is held strong against all enemies.

Island CMXII - 912

912: The temple of Athena was said to have been a favorite stopping point of travelers that sojourn on their spiritual quests for knowledge. Yet for centuries an unknown darkness lurks within and the temple, and the once great structure stands all but empty awaiting a brave adventurer, that will dare to face the shadows and break the curse.

Conclusion: Pirates of the Ancient worlds can capture the imagination and be an endless source of adventures.

Contact me for special request island orders, pricing and availability.

John T Cusack

Www.battlefieldhobbies.org

Custom Sail Designs - By John T Cusack

2009-02-13T09:42:00.001-08:00

Di Oro Collectibles

The Revenge

4-Gun Sloop sail artwork

The Revenge is a 4-gun Ghost pirate ship, thus the dark blue and rather sinister glare of the young woman in blue. Creating Custom Artwork for you sail designs can be as simple as applying a stain to white canvas, or as complex as the design above for the Revenge.

The Black Heart

4-Gun Sloop sail artworkThe Black Heart was the next of the fleet, and as you can see the design on the main sail is partially painted again on the fore-sail. Both sails had been painted black, then a deep red background added to the canvas. Once dry, the main artwork was painted onto of the background, bringing the image of the skull over a scimitar to life.

The Harbinger

4-Gun Sloop sail artwork The Harbinger is the sister ship of the Black Heart and third to set sail from my fleet. She too is a 4-Gun Pirate sloop, yet the sail design is less complex. The canvas is first treated with a black wash. A black wash is created by taking about 1 part black acrylic and about 10 parts water. In this case the sails had been washed over to give them a weather look. The Skulls had then been painted after the sails had dried. No color had been used, only black and white, mixed as needed to form the shades of grey.

The Diamond Rose

6-Gun Topsail Schooner The Diamond Rose is the centerpiece of an avid collector and close friend of mine. The dark blue sails provide the back drop to the vibrant colors of the rose and the facets of the Diamond. Each of the sails has the matching deep blue canvas, which work very well with the deep brown colors of ships decks.

The Draco II

6-gun Brigantine (Privateer)

The Draco II has two sail configurations, which changes the entire look of the ship. The Captain uses these two variations for very separate and distinct missions. Above we have a sail design with a Dragon design that is the Coat of Arms for the Captain. In this configuration, she is a vessel of commerce and her Captain takes the role of Privateer and Pirate Hunter. Notice the netting on the bow which covers the more sinister nature of the Draco.

The Draco II

6-gun Brigantine (Pirate)

The Draco II, with her Pirate ship sail configuration. In this configuration the ship is transformed into her true nature, a predator of the seas. With the Ice dragon displayed upon her main sail, the Draco II is a ship to be feared. The netting on the bow and stern are removed to reveal the "teeth" of the dragon. For a close up view of the Ice Dragon stop by my Flickr page.

Chaos on the Bayou

The Baron
Chaos on the Bayou is a Pirate gaming supplement, published by Battlefield Hobbies which introduces the Baron SaVoodie, and his minion Voodoo Zombies to the Pirates Code - Fast Play Rule system. This sail configuration has not yet been added to a ship, however the creation of the background for this sail is rather unique. Starting wit a white canvas, I have treated the surface with a Payne's grey, allowing the paint to pool on the surface. With pools of color on the canvas I had to allow it dry over night before beginning the next step. The Baron's image was then pulled from the color pools, withs shadows and highlights added. The natural discoloration on the canvas added to the effect. You will note the dark "stains" on the right side of the Baron's face, which had been pools of paint that dried to form blotches.

The Midnight Storm

8-Gun Brigantine

The Midnight Storm is a more traditional pirate ship with clean lines and no frills. She is rigged with square sails, which are all furled. Notice the horizontal lines across the canvas. The lines on the Midnight Storm had been added after the canvas was colored a light Payne's grey by folding and creasing the canvas with the edge of an exacto knife. Each line is folded. then the flat edge of the blade is scraped across the canvas to form the line. This method can also be used prior to adding any color which I will explain below on the Spanish treasure ship.

The Draco III

6-Gun Brigantine

The Draco III is yet another variation of the dragon ship which as you my guess is rather popular. A full picture of this ship can be seen at the following site, Flickr

This version was painted upon a canvas, which was first painted all black. The red dragon was then painted with the gold highlights in the back ground added as the last step. In time, I plan to make several more, variation of the Dragon sails.

Aslan

2-Gun Privateer boat

Aslan is a small boat, with a single square sail configuration. The lion's head was painted directly upon the white canvas with the background added later. T see the complete boat stop by my Flickr page. The inspiration for this artwork is from the CS Lewis classic children's book, "The lion, the witch, and the wardrobe".

The Java

Lateen rigged ship

The Java is a lateen rigged, or Latin-rigged ship. The latin-rig or triangular shaped sail was common in the Mediterranean Sea as found along the Barbary Coast, Red Seas and Indian ocean. This sail configuration is used on the Xebec, Dhows, Felucca or in the Modern Sunfish. The "coffee" colored stain was created with 1:4 paint to water mixture with folds already present before the mixture was applied to the canvas. The design was then added to the edge of the canvas with the same color as the water mixture, with a pen & ink style.

The El Dorado

5-Gun Barque

The El Dorado is two mast Barque with four gun ports and an additional gun port on her bow which fires from the mouth of the great sea monster that looks forward always on the guard. The ship is latin-rigged (or Lateen rigged) with the triangular sails common on inter-coastal waters or rivers. The canvas was first treated with a Cadmium Yellow Deep Hue, with a touch of Burnt Sienna. The sail artwork then painted on the canvas with the skin color left

The United States Revenue Cutter (USRC) Louisiana

Topsail Schooner

The USRC Louisiana is a two mast Schooner built as a pirate hunter, commissioned in service in 1819 along with her sister ship the USRC Alabama. The two had been responsible for the capture of the Pirate ship Bravo, Captained by Jean Lafarge. A know associate of the the infamous Jean Lafitte who gained his notoriety in the New Orleans area as a Privateer, freebooter, smuggler, patriot and pirate. The USRC are the ancestors of our modern day Coast Guard, the sentinels of our coastal waters, that risk their lives daily to keep our country safe.

Her sails are kept pure white with black thread used to contrast the clean lines of this vessel.

The Phoenix De Oro

Spanish Treasure Brigantine

The Phoenix De Oro is a treasure ship with vast holds and seven removable decks. Her two masts hold her amply sails. The white canvass was treated with regularly spaced folds, scratched into the canvas forming vertical lines on the sails. The sails had then balled up and vigorously crumpled up. This gives the sails random folds and creases, for the weather effect. Next a black wash is used to allow the black to darken the lines and creases on the canvas. The black wash is then cleaned off to avoid pooling of color. Once dry, the Spanish cross was added to the sails.

Conclusion: Using plain white canvas sails gives the your ship a historical look, while adding custom art work gives the ship a unique collectible value which can make your ships the center piece of the collection.

The combination of different styles, canvas treatments and designs are endless, only limited by your imagination.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Your Pirate Ship Project - Part 12

2009-02-13T09:39:00.000-08:00

Part 12

This page is reserved to display your completed or in progress Pirate Ship project. Be the first to send me pictures of your ship, include a description of the ship, and any details you would like to share about yourself for other readers.

Contact me at johntcusack@sbcglobal.net

And now for your viewing pleasure, here is the first ship I created.

The Revenge

The Revenge is the first ship that I had built. She is a 4-Gun Sloop with sails rigged fore and aft, plus a staysail which is secured to the bowspar.

John T Cusack
http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 11

2009-02-13T09:32:00.000-08:00

Part 11

Finishing details:

In this installment I will cover the final details that will turn your ship into the center piece of your collection. The details and finishing touches will make the difference between a common "scratch built" ship and a ship that is a custom made work or art.

Add Accent pieces:
Pick up some beads from your local craft store. Be selective with beads that will accent your ship. I selected a studded gold colored bead.

For De Wolven, I placed a gold bead on each end of the Main-topsail and Fore-topsail. Plus one extra on top of the Foremast.

Skull marker beads:
The skull beads can be found on-line, eBay is a good source. For my ships, I add posts on the stern as expained in an earlier posting. The post and skulls are used to mark the speed of your ship in knots. Within The Pirates Code - No Quarter Given Rules System 2009c Battlefield Hobbies, speed is measured in knots. Each 1-Knot is 10cm for each action, with two action for each player in a turn.

Add Chains: (Optional)
Adding chains to your ship gives it a nice touch, yet in most cases is optional. You can use store bought lengths of chain in silver or gold colored or with a dull finish. Or real gold/silver if you have any old broken or unused chains hanging around.

Add the chains for guard rails, anchors or on the bowspar for accent.

Detail the Railing:
In previous installments, several posts had been set into the clay along the edge of the quarter deck.

Now you will complete the railing by adding thread tied off on each post to form the railing.

Using only a clove hitch knot, I have tied off a thread to form the guard rail. I start on one post securing the line with a double clove hitch. Then continue to the next post.

Secure the line:
Once you complete the rail, tie off the thread and add a touch of glue, so the line does not unravel.

The name plate:

For the name plate I suggest using photoshop with a font that will add character to your ship.
De Wolven is a Dutch ship, and will be the Flag ship for a very prestigious Captain from the North. Thus a fancy gothic script was used.

In addition, since I was using photoshop, the text is on a backdrop of a night sky with a full moon rising. A fitting name plate for a Wolf ship.

Glue the photoshop image/text on the name plate, then outline the name with thread so you can not see the boarder of the photoshop printed paper. You can use 110lbs card stock, or plain paper as needed. Either is fine, since the next step will seal and protect the paper.

Dry Fast Top Coat:

Purchase some nail polish top coat, with a nice high gloss finish, you can pick it up at any Walgreens for about $5. The one I used is called "Fast Dry Top Coat" and it is appropriatly named, since it does dry VERY fast.
I applied three coats letting each dry about 10 minutes even though it seemed to dry in minutes. I wanted to avoid a heavy coat that could drip.

Christening the ship:

Christening a ship is a naval tradition that dates back in recorded history to ancient Babylon in the 3rd millennium BC. However the tradition has changed, significantly over the past 5000 years, since sacrificing oxen to pagan gods is frowned on in todays society. The concept however remians the same, before leaving port, ships are blessed and given a name.

The ceremony sorounding the Christening of a new ship is considered an important event. Captains and ship owners take pride in the event, and with the dangers faced at sea, few dare to take to the sea in a ship that has not been Christened. Even many agnostics follow the practice regardless of their beliefs. Be it for "luck" or a divine blessing upon the vessel, the tradition remains.

Signing your creation:

For your ship the final inspection, touch-up paint and the addition of your final signature will complete your ship and "christen" it for service in your fleet.

Once you sign your name, do not continued to "touch-up".

As an artist you must be content to accept any imperfections, and look to any improvements with your NEXT ship build. Once you sign your name, the artwork is complete!!!

The Ship Sets Sail!!!

Send me photos of your build, I would love to see your completed project, and with your permission I will upload the ship for others to enjoy.

Part 12 will be reserved for display of your completed ships projects. Be the first to send me pictures of your ship, include a description of the ship, and any details you would like to share about yourself for other readers.

Thank you for following along, and please add your name to my followers, and stay tuned for future posting.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 10

2009-02-03T19:10:00.000-08:00

Part 10:

Masts, sails and rigging.

In this installment of the Pirate ship build, I will cover how to build your masts, sails and rigging.

Cutting the masts:
With either pre-tapered or standard doll rods, measure and cut each of the ships masts. You have the option of purchasing doll rods that are already tapered or you can carve them by hand as I do.

For the De Wolven, two masts are used, with two sails on each mast.
Select a mast dimension that will be strong enough to support the sails and rigging while not looking to big and bulky.
==> I would suggest 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch doll rods. You may cut the mast to height, from 8 inches to 12 inches in length. Size the main mast longer than the foremast and keep them in proportion to the ship, I suggest that you keep the main mast about the same length as the ship.

Adding Spars:
Use large skewer sticks for your spars, cutting the sharp points and tapering both ends slightly. Lay out the spars, and mast in the pattern that they will be assembled.

The length for each cross spar should be in proportion to the mast, with the lower spars longer. For the De Wolven I have prepared two spars for each mast, with the main sail spars slightly longer.

Prepare the Sails:

Using a sheet of artists canvas, measure and cut each sail. For this ship I selected a square rigged sail arrangment.
Fold over about 1/4 to 1/2 inch at the top of each sail. This will later be folded and glue to form a double thick area for sewing. You may use 110lbs card stock paper if canvas is not available. The card stock would not however be as durable as canvas.
=> You should be able to pick up canvas at your local art store. Most sell rolls of canvas cut to order. The canvas used for all my ships is fine Italian canvas which I picked up in Italy while traveling abroad.

Prepare the canvas:

For a more historic ship, you would keep the sails as pure white, or slightly off white. However for a more "Hollywood" approach you may choose to have custom artwork on the sails as with this ship.
If you choose to have white sails, crumble up the canvas and dirty up the sails a bit to give them some character. You may even add battle damage, rips or burn marks.

==>Please, Do not actually burn the canvas.

With sand paper, rough-up the canvas, create a hole, then apply brown/black paint around the worn area. This will make the sail look as if it was in a battle.

Custom Artwork:

Paint any custom artwork on the canvas before attaching them to your spars. For De Wolven, I have made each sail with a common color scheme, with the main sail as the primary artwork with the wolf. Other sails have red, claw marks as if the wolf cut into the canvas.
Be creative with the sails, they will add color and originality to your ship.

Prepare the Hull:

Measure and cut a piece of felt.

Use the type with an adhesive backing. Place the ship on the felt, trace the ships hull and then cut out the shape.

You should cut well inside the line that you traced, so the felt does not overlap onto the sides of the ship.

==> Trim as needed for the right fit.

Attach the sails:

Match up the spars and sails. Spars should be at least 1/4 inch longer on each end then the sail. Fold the top 1/4 inch of the canvas and glue it together. This forms a thick area used to sew. Prepare your thread and use a canvas needle to sew the sails in place. When sewing, use a pattern that you can repeat for each sail. In general I use a pattern with a repeating clove hitch to secure the thread.

NOTE: The pattern used with the De Wolven is rather complex, however if you would like to try it for your ship, here is the explanation that an experienced craftsmen can attempt. Otherwise as stated above, create your own stitch that you can easily repeat for each sail.

The Stitch pattern:

I use a double length thread, with a knot on the end. This way each stitch has two strands of thread. Start in one corner, from the back to conceal the knot. Wrap around the canvas returning to the same hole, dressing the thread over the top. Repeat the stitch, while pulling the thread over the side. The next stitch goes over the spar. Tie off with a double clove hitch knot on the spar. Stitch back through the same hole from the back of the canvas. Stitch around the spar again. Wrap around the thread between the canvas and spar, tying off with a single clove hitch. Begin the next stitch by tying a clove hitch about 3/4 inch down the spar. Repeat as above, starting a new hole about 3/4 inch from the first.

==> Simple right? we'll maybe not so simple. I may double back and do a "sewing 101" post some time in the future. So if your interested, post a comment, let me know this is an area that you need more instruction. I have dozens of Photos which I have not used for this build, that illustrate every detail of the project.

Attach each of the sails:

Sew your stich pattern for each of the spars, attaching each of the matching sails.

Leave the extra thread at the ends of each spar/sail, you can cut them off later, or use them directly for any rigging you plan to add.

Attach the spars:

Using a canvas needle, make a hole from the back in the center of the sail close to the edge. Make a few stitches while wrapping around the canvas before you tie off the spar.

When tying the spar to the mast, wrap the thread around the mast in an organized pattern.

Then with each completed stitch, thread the needle back through the canvas. To tighten the connection between the mast and the spar, you should wrap the thread around the threads that join the two pieces together. Firmly securing the connection, pulling any loose threads tight.

Easier said then done:
I realize that this is a difficult step to illustrate with photos and even more difficult explain in text. You may need to use trial an error on your stitch patterns and thread/connections. Practice on a spare piece of spar/canvas if needed until you find a pattern that works for you.

Attach each Sail:
Repeat for each sail, spacing each spar as designed.
Rigging: The basic rule for rigging is to keep it simple. Assuming the ship is designed for gaming, less rigging is better. Add a few strands as needed to give the ship some character.

==> I would suggest that as a minimum requirement you should secure a line to the end of each bow spar in a triangle pattern, connecting the end of the spar to the mast about an inch above the spar.

The rigging that you add, helps add support, to your masts. If the ship is used for gaming, it will be removed many times during the life of the ship.

You want to be sure that the rigging is tight, yet not strunk like a banjo or it may break with usage.

==> As you tie off each spar and sail connecting them to the mast, and to each other, they will help secure the sails/spars and prevent them from moving.

Creating your Pirate Flag:

If you must, you can use photo shop and print out pirate flags for your ship on 110lbs card stock.

==> I however, being an artist, must paint each one by hand. It's in my nature, even though photo shop flags look rather nice if done correctly.

Lay out a piece of canvas, cut extra banners for the mast and paint each with the pirate flag pattern of your choice.

Once the flag drys, glue the back side and fold the flag over a painted scewer stick, used as your flag pole.

Do the same with the two banners, making sure you wrap around a stick to keep the hole open.

==> you see the banner on the table, ready to be added to the mast.

Concluding part 10:

This will conclude part TEN of the Pirate Ship Build. In the next installment, I will demonstrate the step required to finish the details that will make your ship a completed work of art.

Stay tuned, and by all means if you would like to commission me to build a ship for your pirate fleet, then please let me know.

John T Cusack

www.battlefieldhobbies.org

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 9

2009-01-09T15:13:00.000-08:00

Part 9:

Prime and paint the ship.

In this installment I will cover the steps required to prime and paint your Pirate Ship model.

Preparing the model:
Once the model is fully cooled after baking, you will need to take a few minutes to clean up the model.

Remove the temporary mast, and test fit the permanent mast. You may need to drill out the hole a bit, but do not enlarge the hole. Later you will slightly tapper the bottom of the mast.
Remove and glue any loose posts, on the gunwales, allow time to dry before priming. Use Allene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue for best results.
Remove the mast support posts, assuming they are loose. My support post had been loose, so I opted to set them aside in a egg cart like storage container.
Remove the Captains wheel and set aside. Remove the wheel stand if it is loose, if you used string as I did, it should not be loose. Take care not to paint it too much with the base coat.
Sand the bottom of the model if any wood pieces are showing.
Clean any rough clay, as a result of the wood grain effect. Do this by running your fingers across the model surface. You will find that little tiny pieces of clay will come loose. You do not need to use tools or sand paper for this step.

Remove the Quarterdeck:
With very little effort the removable quarterdeck should come loose. You may need to use a fine edge clay knife along the seams. Do this very carefully taking your time. Hopefully you will not need to cut to free up the quarterdeck area. If you must cut, be carefully not to snap the exacto blade, Sculpey is stronger then you may guess.

Test fit the deck guns:
Test fit your deck gun at each gun port. Mark any areas that need filing. File any gun ports as needed. Again, hopefully you will not have to cut or file too much.

Prime the model:

Let any glue dry as required.

Use acrylic paint to prime your model. I prefer black, applied with a large stiff bristle brush. You may use spray flat acrylic if you like, however make sure you have proper ventilation and a painters mask.

Prime the model and allow time to dry. I generally allow the model to sit overnight.

Spot prime as needed:
Inspect the model and spot prime any areas that are not fully covered. You want the black to fully cover all those little cracks and rivets.

Allow to dry as needed.

=> Note the storage container that holds the wheel, bow spar, flag staff, and support posts for each of the masts.

Select your color scheme:
Select your ships color scheme. For example, a Ghost ship could be gray and weathered, a Naval war ship could be very well kept, with fresh bright colors.

Pirate ships as a rule, would fall somewhere in between. I like to make most pirate ships, "fairly" well kept, yet showing signs of wear and tear or even some battle damage.

I have selected to have this ship, well kept with a darker blend of wood and bright highlights to contrast the dark wood. Dark sails and red and black rigging, with the custom Wolf artwork on the sails.

Apply the Base coat:
As a general rule, most artists will not start with models finish color. In fact, most artist will agree that you should begin two or three shade darker. With a black primer, by intent I must apply more coats to bring "light" back into my model. The contrast of light and dark is what gives your model life.

I selected Burnt Umber as my base coat.

Using a dry brush, touch the edge of your paint and then apply the base coat on the hull and decks. Do not try to cover every rivet hole and crack, most of the little cracks and rivets should remain black. Let the model dry!

Dry Brush:
Using your base coat again, dry brush the model. Keep the brush dry and hit only the main surface areas. Since your first base coat had to overcome the black primer, using the same color for a second coat will make the model appear as if you used a lighter color. Let dry!

Detail posts and supports:
Prime and base coat any support pieces. Glue the support pieces in place. Since the piece are small, I prefer to glue them in place after priming and base coating them.

=> You can later add details to the posts and support if you wish to have the support pieces stand out from the wood of the main deck.

Prepare the Bow Spar:

The bow spar and flagstaff should be lighly snaded before painting them. Appling paint even in thin layers will make it dificult later to insert and remove the bow spar. It is best to sand the tappered end now, then apply the prime and base coat.

=> Often times I use a different base coat on the flag staff and bow spar. In this case the base coat is Red Iron Oxide, applied with an even coat of paint.

Add a lighter shade for highlights:

At this point, your model should have dark areas and some that are visually lighter. I have used a Red Iron Oxide to lighten the model. First with a mix of Burnt Umber, then a second coat with just Red Iron Oxide, applied with a very dry brush. Burnt Sienna works good too in place of Red Iron Oxide.

Again keep the brush dry. Both coats are only lightly dry brushed on the main deck areas, the bow and top edges of the hull.

Let dry.

With the dry brush method, you should not have to wait long for the model to dry

The next coat is with Yellow Oxide, using a very dry brush. This final dry brush only hits the fine edges of the model.

=> It should dry very quickly this time, so you will only have to wait a few minutes.

Detail Paint:

I have detailed a high water line along the base of the model, Bright Red, which a common color used on the hull. You can even trace a white line for effect above the red hull paint.

=> Black looks good for the hull too.

Add any fine details to highlight or enhance the character of your model.

Notice the Skull door knob, and light blue port holes. The color in the port holes give the illusion of glass, with reflected white clouds in the windows. Also i painted the hinges iron, and painted the fittings on the guard rail and port holes as brass.
Detail the posts by painting them a solid color, I use Red Iron Oxide, then applied a white finish on the top of each post.

Optional black-wash: Many artist like to black-wash their models. This is done with a drop of black acrylic or for the experienced with black ink. The black is mixed with very generous amount of water. I will cover this technique in a separate blog in the future. It is easy to lose the bright colors on your model if do it incorrectly. I would suggest Not black-washing the model at this time. You can always do it later. I did NOT black-wash this model.

The completed paint job:

= > You will notice how applying several coats gives the model the look of a real wood deck, with some areas shaded and others highlighted.

Concluding part 9:
This concludes part NINE of the Pirate Ship project.

In the next installment I will cover how to make masts and sails, then how to add the rigging to your ship.

You are close to completion, and your hard work and patience should show within the details of your ship.

John T Cusack
Www.battlefieldhobbies.org

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 8

2009-01-04T06:31:00.000-08:00

Part 8:

Adding the ships wheel and name plate.

This installment will cover the final steps required before baking your pirate ship.

Specialty parts:

The Ships wheel, and swivel guns are the only specialty items I have added which you may need to order on line, or pick up at your local hobby store.

I would suggest Model Expo online. A site dedicated to model ship and model plane building that carries tons of little piece parts that make building a ship model much easier.

These can be a bit pricy, so watch for close out sales, Model Expo often clears out items like these for $0.99 each. Otherwise the Wheel is $3.99, and the wheel stand is another $3.99 sold seperately.

=> The Swivel guns are $3 to $5 each, watch for close outs on these too.

Add the Swivel gun:

I have customized the swivel gun by adding a small gold bead. The beads you can find at your local craft store. Make sure the center diameter is about the size of a tooth pick.

Cut a tooth pick down to 1/2 inch in length. super glue the tooth pick and the swivel gun onto the bead. Make sure you insert the tooth pick only half way into the bead, so that the swivel gun can also be inserted.

=> I wrapped some thread around the swivel gun side, since the swivel gun post was very small and fragile. The thread gives it some much needed support.

Use the dental compactor to make a deep hole in the gunwale or stern. You can make similar holes in multipule locations so the swivel gun can be repositioned as needed. I have made two holes aft as shown, and two more near the bow of the ship.

Mounting the ships wheel:

Like most other items, I have customized the base of the ships wheel.

Inserting the base alone will not allow the ships wheel to turn freely. I have added a small wood base, then super glued it in place. I have also added threads around the bottom of the base to add support. Glue alone may snap off with useage, however with the thread it will be very strong.

=> If you look closly, you can see two indent marks on the quarter deck where I test fitted the wheel. This will be the area I mount the customized wheel stand.

Mount the ships wheel, on the aft section of the quarterdeck.

If you like, you may mount it on the removable section as well, close to the center rail. This would allow a figure to be placed "at" the wheel.

=> The placement I choose is more for show, so a figure will not fit behind the wheel. This is a trade off you must consider, in my case, having more open deck space took precedence.

Finishing touches for the gun ports:

The gun ports take alot of abuse as you mold and craft the ship, adding parts supports, wood grain details, etc. It is very difficult to keep them shaped, and aligned correctly while handeling the unbaked clay.

At this point, I will reshape each gun port and again REMEASURE each gun port with your "test" deck gun.

I will then add trim around each gun port by rolling out a thin strip of clay. Look closely and you will see the thin line of clay has a ridged texture. I made this by rolling the ridged handle of one of the dental tools to flatten the clay. Then cut the bead of clay even with a clay knife.

Use a flat clay knife to place each tiny piece of the gun port trim.

Take you time with this step, adding each of the tiny pieces around the gun ports.

Since I gave the trim a ridged texture I will not add wood grain, nor will I add rivets.

Important Note: I must stress, that you should remeasure the gun ports with your test deck gun, AGAIN. The deck alignment is critical, so measuring one last time before baking, will save lots of cutting and filing later.

Naming the ship:

At this point in your Ship Building project, you should have a name in mind for your vessel. If you have not yet selected a name, you should do so now. The size and shape of the name plate needs to accomidate the name you choose.

You can shape and cut any design, use a pattern if you must. You can make a pattern by drawing only half of the design. Then fold the paper to trace the other half. Cut out the paper and trace your pattern.

=> My name plate is cut by hand, so it did not turn out "perfectly" semitrical.

Add rivets to help attach and bond the clay to the stern planking. Blend the edges too, to ensure the name plate is attached.

Align the Masts:
Temporarily remove the small posts used to mark the fore and main masts. Insert the full length masts, and line them up vertically. Veiw the model from the front, sides, and from above to ensure the mast are perfectly aligned.

Carefully, remove and reinsert the short doll rods used to temporarily mark the masts.

=> The short masts are used only for baking.

Baking the model:

Place the model on a large cooky sheet, I suggest using a cookie sheet that is no longer used to cook food.

Make sure you ask permission FIRST from your spouse or mom before you take thier best cookie sheet.

Baking instructions:

Bake Super Sculpey at 275°F (135°C) for 15 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) of thickness. Once the piece is cool, it can be painted with acrylics.

Baking your model is more of an art then a fixed science. The thickness of the clay varies, and you also have a removable section that will not bake as fast as the exposed main deck.

I baked my model for 21-minutes, then checked the progress by watching the gunwales and main deck area for a color change.
I added 5-more minutes, since the color was not showing any serious signs of darkening. You do not want to overbake, the clay. If the clay starts to darken, then take it out of the oven.
Also, I do not preheat the oven, so the "preheat" time, was part of the original 21-minutes. My oven preheats to 275 in 5-minutes, so the extra 5-minutes I added later worked well for this model.
Watch the oven closely, but do not keep opening the oven door, that will work against you. Turn on the oven light and watch thru the glass.
Important Note: Remember to turn on the fan, and have a parent or adult supervisor the baking of the model if you are a minor.

=> Before you bake, did you recheck the gun port alignment once last time?

Before it cools:

After you take the model out of the oven, set it aside for about 5-10 minutes to begin to cool. However before it cools completely, with a pot holder or oven mitt, slightly twist the bow spar to make sure it is loose.

Also using a pot holder or oven mitt, twist the the two wood masts to ensure they are loose. This will save some effort later, and it will prevent them from bonding into the clay. Leave them in place, just make sure they can be removed.

Warning: Since this done while the model is not yet fully cooled, I suggest you take care not to burn yourself on the cookie sheet.

Concluding the rough build:

After baking let the model cool several hours before moving on to the next section.

This concludes part EIGHT of the Pirate Ship build. In the next installment, I will show you how to prime and begin to paint the model. Then on to adding masts, sails, rigging and those little details that will make your ship a true collectors item.

Since your reading part eight of this build you are clearly interested, so please become a BLOG follow by Clicking on follow and this will help you stay tuned to future projects and postings.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 7

2009-01-03T07:05:00.000-08:00

Part 7:

Strengthening the ship.

In previous sections, I have covered adding wood grain, planks and details to your ship.

In this installment, I will demonstrate how to add wood and clay supports that will help strengthen your ship.

Strengthen the gunwales:
Roll a long thick lump of clay about 3-4 inches in length. Cut this into the shape shown in the picture.

This piece will then be sliced in thin layers to add the vertical support between the deck guns.

=> The piece shown is about 3/4 inch in height.

Slice thin pieces and place each support piece on the gunwales, centered between each gun port.

Blend the clay into the side and main deck for each piece.

=> Take care not to damage the wood grain details on the gunwales, deck or outer hull.

Also place a piece left and right of the last gun ports.

Notice how I have cut and adapted one of the support pieces near the base of the steps

=> Detail each piece with vertical wood grain, and a rivet at the top and bottom of the support.

Add wood supports:

You will need several wood coffee stir sticks and small skewers.

Cut off the sharp end of the skewers, since we will not need them for this build.

Create wood posts:
Measure and cut wood posts for supports. You will need only two for this section. My posts are 1-1/4 inch in lenght.

=> In total I will use 26 posts on this ship.

I have added some character to the post by carving a grove at one end and sanding the tip to make it round. Customizing the post is tedious work, yet the finish results are worth the effort.

Add the mast support:

From the coffee stir sticks, measure and cut two trapezoid shaped planks. Cut the angle on the first, then set a second stir stick on the cutting board. Cut the next piece by following the angle of the first trapezoid plank. The result will be two matched trapezoid planks that fit on the face of the foremast post.

Place two of the skewers posts at an angle, gently pushing them into the main deck.

=> Do not push them all the way thru the deck. In case you do push them too far, just remember to sand them a bit after you bake the model. The ship will have a felt bottom, so you do not need to concern yourself too much.

Main mast supports:

Cut more coffee stir sticks as in the last step, with three planks for each side. You may then use round posts as above or use flat craft sticks as shown in the photo.

=> I like using the the flat sticks on the main deck so I have a flush support column for the main mast. This helps with figure placement it you intend to use the ship for historical gaming.

Measure and cut the craft sticks and gently push them into the deck. Again try not to push them all the way thru the deck.

The added wood supports will allow the mast to be removed for game use without the worry of damaging the clay support post.

=> Later in the build after baking, you will remove these wood pieces, then glue them in place after you prime and start to paint the model.

Adding a flag staff:

Using a thick skewer, measure a 4 inch flag pole. I have clipped the sharp tip, then carved a tappered "spear" like shape for the flag pole.

Notice the bottom end is also slightly tappered. This allows easy removal of the flag.

Push the flag pole into the stern.

Do this gently to avoid damage to the stern. A slight twist while pushing works great.

=> You may need to add an interior support post. My flag pole poked into the captains cabin. Remove the flag, add the post, then reinsert the flag pole.

Do not forget to add wood grain details to the new support piece.

Set aside the tappered flag pole for baking and insert a skewer of equal size, without the tappered end.

This way the flag pole hole will accompidate similar flag poles, regardless if they are tappered or not tappered.

Add wood posts:
Carve up a collection of wood posts, you will need 24 more posts, cut 1-1/4 inch in lenght for this step. I'm sure you could find ready made posts if you search the web, or you could just use standard skewers without the custom end.

Either way, custom posts or standard post, you will insert them into the stern, gently pushing and twisting them in place.

Add four left, and four right of the flag staff. Use the dental compactor tool to make a pilot hole for each post. Notice that I insert the stern posts about half of the length.

Add two additional posts, left and right of the quarterdeck. The posts are inserted no more than 1/3 of theier length into the clay.

You could also make these four quarterdeck posts a touch longer, as needed to ensure they are inserted at least 1/2 inch into the clay.

=> Later I will show you how to create a guardrail between these two posts.

Skull Markers:

Gaming Note: This ship has eight posts across the stern, used to mount skull marker beads. The skull beads are used within The Pirates Code - No Quarter Given, Fast Play Rules system 2008 ©, by Battlefield Hobbies. The skull markers are use to track the speed of the ship. Each skull represents 1-knot of speed, which equals 10cm of movement for navigation.

=> You can use the skulls to track damage, speed or just add them for effect.

Add posts for effect:
Add additional post on the gunwale aligned with each vertical gunwale support. Five on each side in total, again inserting them with a slight twist about 1/2 inch into the clay.

=> For my ships, these extra posts are used to tie off ropes, or to store the skull beads when the ship slows below 8-knots of speed.

Add as many additional wood posts or supports to help customize your ship. The extra posts can be for show, or have a specific function as needed.

Historical note:

Ruse de guerre: Most pirate ships would carry an assortment of flags. A common ploy used by pirates would be to raise the national flag of the merchant vessel that they are approaching to trick them into letting down their guard. The pirates would then approach the target vessel, getting in close enought to bring their deck guns into range. The pirates would then host up the Jolly Roger, and firing a warning shot across the bow, thus letting their true intentions be known. The pirates do not want to shoot up thier intended prey, and many times the only shot fired is the warning shot, and Woe to any merchant that ignores the warning. Pirates forced to fight for their spoils, are more likley to offer No Quarter in combat. For this reason, a wise or defenceless merchant vessel would often strike their colors, surrendering to the mercy of the pirates.

NOTE: You can make a variety of pirate flags and national ensigns. This will allow you to swap out flags as needed. De Wolven for example, is a Dutch name, so you could add a Dutch VoC or a standard Dutch flag and quickly turn her into a merchant vessel in disguise.

The VoC :
Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie, which translates as United East Indies Company but is also known as the Dutch East India Company.

In the 1600's the VoC dominated navigation and world trade.

=> In a future post I will cover making flags with canvas, or with 110lbs card stock.

Concluding part 7:

This will conclude part SEVEN of the Pirate ship build.

In the next installment I will cover the final steps before baking the clay.

Stop by my Flickr or Picasa photo pages for pictures of other completed ships, pirate, privateer and naval vessels.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 6

2009-01-02T17:08:00.000-08:00

Part 6:

Preparing the hull.

In previous installments, I have walked you through the steps of creating the basic hull, added decks and how to begin the detailing of your ship.

In this installment, I will cover preparing the hull and surface areas for wood grain and planking details.

As in previous steps, we begin with a picture of the completed ship. Starting with the end in mind.

Adding the rudder:

A minor add is needed before we can prepare the hull.
Cut out an enlongated trapizod for the rudder. Test fit the piece, them trim as needed to allow the the rudder to fit in the bottom section of the stern.

Use the end of one of your tools to adhere the rudder to the stern. I have pushed three distinct groves on the rudder to give it some character.

Prepare the main deck:

By now your main deck should be relativly smooth. However, at the point the deck meets the gunwale, it is most likely rounded.
With a flat edged tool, create a seam to give better definition to the deck, verse the side/gunwale.
Level off any rough areas, scraping off excess clay in very small amounts.
=> Do not shave to deep, it is beter to simply smooth out the surface verse shaving off too much clay to level out the surface.

Add groves to the hull:

With a flat, round edged tool, make groves to represent the planks on the outside of the ship.

=> You may opt to add the groves BEFORE you add the side/gunwales to your ship. If you do however, you may find that as you work the model the groves loose definition.

I have added four groves along the outside hull. One above the gunports, the next centered across the gunports, then two more below the gunports.

Reshape the gunports:

You will need to touch up the edges of the gunports after you add the groves to the sides of your ship.

=> Square them off, however you do not need spend too much time. In Part 8, I will cover adding trim around the gunports.

Blend the groves:
Your groves on the side of the ship may not be perfectly aligned from one side to the other. At the prow of the ship however, you will want the lines to match. Try as best you can to join the lines, so looking at the prow, the groves on the port and starboard sides line up.

I have left the center line of the prow, without lines. This helps blend the groves into a finished look for the prow.

=>Optional: You may add a figure head to the prow, by carving or by adding wood or metal items to the ship. If you add a soft white metal figure, make sure it can withstand the heat of baking. Otherwise test fit the item, remove it then add it again after baking.

Add the wood grain:

Use your saw tooth blade to add wood grain lines to the outside hull surface. => You may notice, I do not use the exacto saw tooth blade mounted in the exacto handle. Since the saw tooth blade is not sharp, you can use it with or without the exacto handle.

Continue adding wood grain on the main deck, inside gunwales, and all other surfaces.

Add planking:

Use the end of a flat (thin) rounded ended tool to trace plank lines. Be creative and add cross lines for each plank.

I keep the planks about 1-2 inched in lenght.

=> With 1:72 scale, 1-2 inches would equate to 6 to 12 foot planks on a full scale ship.

Add wood peg/rivets:
Using a dental compactor tool add the rivets marks, which represent the wood pegs used to connect the planks. This step is really just for looks.
I use two sizes, pictured to the left, with smallest used on most planks. The larger compactor tool, I use on the ends of planks with a single indentation.

You will notice the ship is no longer the same size as the pattern I started with. This is a result of molding and shaping the hull, deck and side of the ship. The bottom hull/deck is no longer as thick as it was when I started. This however is not a problem, since Super Sculpey clay is very strong when baked. However as build your ship, you should watch for thin spots, adding clay as needed.

Concluding part 6:
This will conclude part SIX of the Pirate Ship build.

In the next installment, I will cover the addition of wood and clay parts designed to strengthen the gunwales and mast supports.

Do you have comments, questions? Then please add a comment, and sign up to follow the blog by using the links in the upper right hand corner of the page.

John T. Cusack
Www.battlefieldhobbies.org

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 5

2009-01-01T16:13:00.000-08:00

Part 5:

Adding details to your pirate ship.

Up to this point most of the work has been shaping and adding the various parts of the ship. In this installment I will outline the steps required to detail the removable quarterdeck piece.

The primay tool needed is a fine saw tooth blade, which can be fitted into a standard exacto knife.

Cut out the captains door:

This piece is about 3/4 inch wide by about 1 inch tall. I have made this piece about a 3/8 inch thick, however i did not measure the it. Just rough the demension by look. Start by cutting a larger square, they trim the piece, round the top, and place it on the face of the quarterdeck piece.

Tool in the door frame:
The door frame grove seen on the left, is made by pressing the tool into the "door" piece cut in the previous step. Pressing the details into the door, also serves to bond the door to the quarterdeck face.

Also notice I have added three vertical "panels", to form the door.

Adding the wood grain:
This technique you will use repeatdly as you add wood grain to nearly all surfaces of the ship. Here I am adding the wood grain horizontally to the left of the captains door on the face of the quarterdeck. I alternate with horizontal and vertical wood grain as needed.

For example the bevel cut area is vertical wood grain, while the side and inside are all horizontal.

Add port holes:
The port holes are created by adding a bead of clay in a circle. Then I press a compacting dental tool into the bead to form rivets.

If you do not have access to dental tools, then cut the pointed tip from a tooth pick and use the cut end to make your rivets.

Notice on the left bulkhead, I have added vertical lines, to look like panels, before I added the port hole.

=> Also press a circle into the clay inside the porthole to give it the illiusion of depth.

Do not however, pull an actual hole in the clay. Later I will demostrate painting the port hole sky blue with clouds to make it look like it is reflecting the sky in a translucent or semi translucent glass window.

Adding the wood grain deck:
With the saw tooth blade, add wood grain on the top of the quarterdeck. Then add, wood decking, with the edge of the saw blade, or with a fine edges tool.

The tool show here is the dental compact tool mentioned above. It works great for adding rivets at the ends of each deck plate. Notice how I have added the deck plates in a pattern to make it look like different length of planks had been used to build the ship.

=> The "rivet" marks on the wood planks would represent wood pegs, bolts or nails depending on the area of the ship. For ease of explaination, I will call them "rivets" as a general term, since that best describes the hundrens of little holes you will make on the decks.

Add wood grain on all surfaces:
Add the wood grain and the plank details on the side, and even on the underside. Also add the rivet marks on each plank.

Notice the two vertical boards on the beveled section, which each have only one rivet mark on the top and bottom.

= >Use your creativity with the wood grain, planks and rivet marks. At times I will even add battle damage on ships, or carve speical features, skulls, or other marking to give each ship more character.

Add a railing:

I have used small skewer sticks, carved a grove in the stick, then worked a point to creat this post rail. This too is rather tedious work, however I like the customer look to the post once finished.

Notice I have four holes in the deck, made with a deep plunge of the dental compact tool.

=> I strongly suggest to cut the sharp tips off the skewer sticks. The fine point will draw blood while you work details, adding chians, ropes and rigging. If you intend to use the ship for gaming, it could also cut a careless finger. Trust me on this one, I cut the shape tips off all the skewers or tooth picks used on my ships now. Your finger tips and knuckles will thank you for this suggestion.

Install the rail:

Push the four posts into the clay, using the four guiding holes shown in the previous picture.

Work the post in slowly, twisting as you go to avoid crushing the bulkhead, or mis-forming the deck.

=> Also do not push them in to far, or you will have a post in the port hole. The post on the far left, did just that, so I had to rework the port hole.

You can also add hinges and a door knocker if you like to add that special touch. The door knocker on this ship is a skull. You can look back on the finished picture above to see the finish details added.

Concluding part 5:

This concludes part FIVE of the Pirate ship build. The next installment will prepare the main deck, and exterior hull for the wood grain and plank details. I will cover in detail, how to strengthen the mast supports, working to bring life to your pirate ship.

Thanks for following the Blog!!

John T Cusack

www.battlefieldhobbies.org

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 4

2009-01-01T13:58:00.000-08:00

Part 4:

Creating the gun ports.

Up to this point, I have walked through the steps of building the basic hull, adding the stern, forecastle, spar deck and creating the removeable quarterdeck.

In this installment, I will cover cutting in the gun ports, adding a temporary fore mast and main mast, then the creating of steps leading up to the Quarterdeck. When you get right down to it, the gunports MAKE the ship!

Test figures:
Select a 25mm figure from your collection. If you do not have any figures, pick up a pirate figure from your local Game/Hobby store.

The Figure I use, is primed, however not fully painted. It should however, be mounted on a base like those you may use in your figure collection. The one shown is on a 1 inch masonite base.

In addition, I have selected a deck gun (Cannon) which has a barrel that measures 30mm in length.

Measure the gunwale:
This is by far one of the most important steps. As you work the model, the sides droop, stretch and otherwise become mis-shaped. Througout the entire build, I work and re-work the side of the ships. As you cut gun ports, the side will "sag" even more. So for this reason I stress, this is important, so measure, now then measure again, and again, before you bake the model.

=> I use a doll rod, with a red mark at 1-1/4 inches. Hold the measuring stick all along the side. Correct any areas that are below the mark.

Prepare the main deck:

With your fingures, flatten the main deck to remove any bumps of rounded areas. This step will make the workable main deck surface larger, at the same time ensuring the surface is flat.

You will want to flatten the surface very well, while spot measuring the gunwales throughout this step. I even use the "test" figures since the 1 inch round base helps to level off the main deck surface. All the more reason to use an unpainted figure.

Mark the gun ports:
Using the deck gun, place and press the barrel into the side of the ship. Take note in the picture you can clearly see the first two locations, to the right of the deck gun piece.

I suggest using an unpainted deck gun too, since clay will often stick to the piece.

Mark out each gun port, for this ship I have eight ports, with four on the port and four on the starboard gunwale.

Cut the gun ports:
Using a flat, square ended tool, press the gun port by forming a square in the side of the ship. While pressing the tool, you will need to place you fingure on the outside of the ship to support the gunwale. Press until you feel the flat, square edge against your finger.

Once you have press "cut" the four sides, push the piece through from the inside. It will make a rough square hole. Take only a moment to square off and clean the gun port. There is still some detail wrok to be done later, so you do not need to have the gun ports perfect at this point.

=> Test fit the deck gun at each gun port hole to ensure it is lined up correctly.

Insert temporary masts:
Using a short doll rod, insert the foremast, then insert the main mast into the mast supports.

When baking you will use these temporary mast, later I will demonstrate the placement of the actual full lenght masts to provide vertical alignment of the the mast.

=> The doll rods for the foremast can be 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch. The main mast, I like to use a 3/8 inch doll rod, since it will be taller it should be thicker at the base.

Forming the steps:
The steps are only for show, and will not be made for figure placement. Star with a small piece of clay, I like to star with a lump or ball, then cut it down, verse flattening a piece of clay. I find that using a ball of clay is best, carefully worked with your hands to remove any air pockets.

Cut a small square, about 1/2 inch thick by 1 inch square. Cut the piece from as shown, from corner to corner.

Trace the step pattern:
With a flat, square ended tool, lightly trace the step pattern. Don not cut the pattern, only mark it so you can see the pattern on the side of the steps.

=> Nothing too fancy, again this piece is only for show.

Install the steps:
Place the steps against the side/gunwale, with the pattern you traced showing. Then with a flat, squared ended tool, push the pattern into the steps. Do this while working the clay into the side/gunwale seam.

Work the bottom seam, blending the clay into the main deck and sides of the ship.
=> Do not bond the steps with the removable quarterdeck. In fact, remove the quarter deck and work the back seam, forming a clean fit.

Note: You will recall the beveled edge I had mentioned in a previous step. As I recommended earlier, matching a flat quarterdeck face with a flat backing on the steps will make the removable quarter deck much easier to fit together. I have made a beveled edge, which took many test fittings and work to gain a fit like a "key" for my removable quarterdeck. Since my ships are all hand made and customized, I like to have a "key" type fit for the removable deck. But again, I suggest a flat cut for your first ship.

Concluding Step 4:
This concludes part FOUR of the Pirate ship build. This is the final "rough" build section, before I move on to showing you how to add the fine details that will bring your ship to life.

In the next installment I will cover adding detail to the removable quarterdeck and Captains cabin doorway and port holes.

How is your build going?
Post comment on your progress, tips for your fellow craftsmen, comments or question.

As a master craftsmen, teacher and artist myself, I have a goal to learn something new each day. Thus far every day is successful, as I learn every day with every new project. Today could be your day to teach me a tip or technique that you have picked up along the way. Be confident to share what you have learned, it helps build the artists community, and who knows, some day you will be the master, and I but the student.

I hope you are enjoying the instructions, and learning a few tips along the way.

John T Cusack

www.battlefieldhobbies.org

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 3

2008-12-31T17:17:00.000-08:00

Part 3:

Creating the forecastle.

In part two, I showed you how to add the stern and how to prepare the quarterdeck section for the removeable quarterdeck.

In this installment, I will step you through the process of adding the forecastle, bowspar, creating the removeable quarterdeck and finsihing up with the post support for the main mast.

As in part 1 & 2 you will begin with a completed picture of the pirate ship that this will be outlined in part 3.

Cutting the forecastle deck pattern:

Flaten a small piece of clay, make the thickness of this section about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. This is by far the thickest piece we will be cutting.

You may find that this piece does not fit the bow area perfectly. The extra thickness will allow you to mold it into the area, creating a forecastle deck area large enought for one of two 25mm figures.

=> You will note in later pictures, I often use a "test" figure to help keep the model in perspective. I also use a 1:72 scale deck gun, to help align the gun ports.

Place the forecastle deck:

Align the forecastle deck in the prow of the ship. You will notice that in front of the deck piece is small open space. You will recall in part one, this the area you had placed an extra ball of clay to fill in and streghten the bow of the ship.

=> The deck should be slightly below the edge of the ship gunwale/side.

Use a flat, square tipped tool, to adhere the clay to the main deck. You will notice that while bonding the clay, I have created an underscored area below the deck. This will be the bulkhead area of the forecastle deck. Also work the seams, and blend the clay from the deck into the sides of the ship. Add beads of clay as needed.

=> Optional: I will often add a bulkhead door, below the forecastle deck, assuming the deck is thick enought. With this ship however, I have not added this feature, since I have added the foremast support in this location instead. If you would like to add a door, just make your forecastle deck an extra 3/4 inch wide and insert the bow support on top of the forecastle deck.

Adding the bow spar:

It is now time to add the first of many wood piece parts to the ship. I have selected a doll rod 5/16" in diameter that is 6 inches long. I have tapered the doll rod on one end, however this is very tedious work, shaving and sanding the tapered doll rod. You can also purchase tapered doll rods to save time and effort if you must.

Insert the bow spar along the prow, and push the end at least 1/2 inch into the clay of the forecastle deck.

Installing a Spar deck:

To help ensure the removable bow spar is strong enough to support the spar, and last for many years, I have added a spar deck.

Cut a small elongated trapezoid shaped deck, approximately 1/2 inch in thickness and about 3/4 inch wide.

This small spar deck will allow you to place a forward lookout, while providing the much needed support for the bow spar.

Installing the foremast support:

Cut a small square, tapered on the side and front and flat across the back. The flat side will be bonded to the forecastle deck.

This is going to support the foremast, so it must be at least 3/4 inch square, and about 3/4 to an 1 inch thick.

=> Bigger is not always better, so keep the post reasonable sized. We are going to add wood later to help strengthen this piece.

Tool the foremast support:

Use a flat, square ended tool to secure and bond the piece to the main deck.

Then blend the piece into the bulkhead of the forecastle deck. Try to keep the support piece larger at the base.

Again, we will add wood supports to this piece later, however make sure you keep the piece large enough to have a 5/16 inch doll rod inserted for the foremast.

Cutting the Quarter Deck and bulkhead:

Flatten a piece of clay, keeping the thickness about 1/2 inch. Make this piece large enough to not only cut to the two pieces show, but also enough to cut two additional side pieces.

The main deck is a trapezoid shown above, with the bulkhead below, marked in the picture as the "Qtr Deck face". You will notice my pattern is too small. This is in part, is because my ship is wider then the sloop/schooner pattern I used to cut the main deck. Also in part, since as you tool, flatten and work the clay, it tends to stretch. This is ok, since the extra main deck space is useful if you plan to use the ship with figures for gaming.

Building the removeable quarterdeck:

Place the bulkhead piece face down, and connect the piece to the quarterdeck. Use a round flat tool (my favority tool) to blend the clay together. This is the inside, so do not hesitate to add an extra bead of clay if you must to help connect these two pieces.

Keep the deck at a nice 90 degree angle to the bulkhead face, working the clay seam to ensure a nice clean fit.

Also blend the outside seam on the face of the bulkhead, to ensure a nice smooth finish.

Cut the side bulkheads:

Cut out two lengths of of clay for the side. You will need to measure the width. You can test fit the piece and trim the edge as needed to match the sides with the face.

The sides will be placed with the quarterdeck face down on the work surface. Use your tools to blend the seam, both inside and outside.

Add a bead of clay inside:

I have opted to add a bead of clay along the inside seam on this piece. Since the inside is not seen, the strenght of the piece is more important then how the piece looks inside.

This will help bond all the seams. Notice that I have added a bead of clay on both the horizontal and vertical seams.

Use your tools to blend the bead into the deck and bulkhead surfaces.

Install the removeable Quarterdeck:

Place the removeable quarterdeck at teh stern of the ship. As needed, trim and form the deck to ensure that it fits into place.

The seam between the stern, quarterdeck piece and the removebale quarterdeck should be flush. It does not however need to be a tight fit, since this deck needs to remain independant of the rest of ship.

As we work details into the ship, this piece will be removed and installed several times. You may notice that I have belvel cut the two front corners of the piece. This is done to allow the steps to be placed, and it also forms a "key" type match of the removeable quarterdeck onto the ship deck. Once the steps are build, I had to make many adjustments to ensure the correct fit. If the "key" shape of teh belved deck and steps do not fit properly, the removeable deck will not be removeable.

=> I would suggest to keep the face of your removeable quarterdeck piece flat. It will make it easier to fit the removeable pieces later. The belve looks great, yet it can be a trouble area that can be easiliy avoided.

Installing the Main mast support:

Make a ball of clay, a little smaller than a golf ball. Then cut out a 1 inch thick trapezoid shaped support post. Notice that the post is wider at the top and larger at the bottom.

Also I have made this support post about 1-1/2 inches wide by about 1 inch depth, by at least 1 inch tall at teh base.

This support post is going to be for the main mast, and later I will show you how to add wood support to help strengthen the support piece.

Tooling the Main mast support:

Before you place the support piece, I have "roughed up" the underside of the piece with a saw tooth exacto blade. This helps the the piece bond tot he main deck. Since this piece MUST adhear firmly tot he main deck, the rough underside surface will help hold the piece in place.

Use the center lines on the main deck to help place the support post in the correct location.

Use a flat, square edged tool to blend the clay from the post onto the main deck. I have not added a bead, however if you need a bead do so to help blend the post to the deck. This piece needs to be strong, since it will support the main mast, which will be removed and placed many times over the life of the model.

=> Again, later I will show how to add extra wood to support this piece, yet the clay alone should be strong enough to support the main mast.

Concluding part 3:

This will conclude Step THREE of how to build a pirate ship by hand. Below you can see that the model is finally taking shape and starting to look like a ship. The grid lines on my work surface are 1/2 inch squares. So you can see that the ship is 13 inches bow to stern, plus 3-1/2 inches of bow spar extension at the prow. Once you place the rudder this ship will measure 17 inches by about 6-1/2 inches at the widest point. By approxiamte scale, this would make our ship about a 100 to 110 foot in length. Not bad for a fast and manuverable pirate ship.

In the next installment, I will demostrate how to add the gun ports and how to add steps that lead up from the main deck to the quaterdeck.

By the way, if at any point you need a few extra tips on the build, drop me a line or post comment and I will address your questions. The purpose of this tutorial is for YOU to learn the steps needed to create your own pirate ship. As with any instruction, when in doubt, just ask a question.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 2

2008-12-31T11:30:00.000-08:00

Part 2:

Building the Stern, and quarterdeck.

In the first part, I showed you how to begin your pirate ship project, with basic art supplies, tools, and materials needed. In addition I went on to explain how to cut the patterns for the hull and gunwales.

In this installment, I will step you through the process of adding the stern and preparing the quarter deck. One step at a time, and you will be able to create you own pirate ship.

Tooling the ship:
Select a tool that meets your needs. In this case, I have selected a flat tool with a rounded end. I find that even though I have dozens of tool, I tend to use on a selected few for most projects. Pick out a few that you like, and keep these aside from the rest. This will save time and it will help you become proficient as you learn to use each of these selected tools. As you learn to effectively use each specialised tool, your crafting skills will improve.

Using the flat, rounded end, I will run the tool at an angle along the bottom edge. As you guide the tool, small shavings of clay will be removed. Be carful not to dig into the seam and remove too much. Most of the tooling will be smoothing the clay over.

Continue to work the edge on both sides, taking care at the bow as you shape the smooth curves of your ship. The purpose of this step is to form a seamless bond along the base of the sides, and removing any excess clay that would form lumps on the sides of the ship.

=> Use your center line while working the edge to keep the shape of the hull symmetrical.

Smooth the bottom:
Carefully flip the ship over. If the clay has bonded to your working surface, use a flat putty blade, or very thin (dull) knife to gently remove the clay. Be careful not to cut into the bottom.

With the same flat rounded tool used above, gently smooth the bottom seam. I like to use a brush stroke like movement, blending at a 45-degree angle to the seam. Make sure you smooth the entire edge, then return the ship upright.

Add clay as needed:
I find that certain areas require a dab of clay to reinforce the ship. By adding a small ball of clay into the bow for example, I help strengthen the bond formed at the prow of the ship.

Work the clay into the seam, and smooth the edges until you form a nice even surface in the bow of the ship.
This area will later be covered by the forecastle deck, however the extra clay will help hold the model together.

Cutting pieces for the Stern:
Flatten the clay with your rolling pin, this time keeping the clay about 5/8" inch thick. The two pieces shown to the left are the stern, and a small piece of the quarter deck that will be used to bond the stern to the quarterdeck.

=> This small portion of the quarterdeck is later used to mount the ships wheel.

The quarter deck itself is going to be a removeable piece, so it will be built independantly in a later installment.

Assemble the Stern:

The pattern for the stern was also folded in half to help form a center line on the clay piece. This center line is then used to match up the main deck with the stern piece.

As you match up the stern, gently pinch the two pieces together. Take care not to pinch too hard, you do not want to damage the shape of the gunwale or the stern pieces.

=> Use a heavy card stock for your patterns, it helps ensure they will last for more than one ship. Notice the center line on the hull, formed by pressing the center fold in the card stock pattern into the clay.

Smooth out the Stern:

From the inside, you will then bond the two peices together using a flat tool. In this case, I have blended the clay starting from the gunwale and blending the clay onto the stern piece. This will be the first step in forming a seamless bond, which will hold the two pieces together.

=> This is an area that I would suggest you add some clay to help strengthen the bond.

Adding a bead of clay:
Roll up a bead of clay that will be used to along the seam formed between the main deck, the two gunwales and the stern.

With your fingers first then with your tools, work this bead into the seam.

You will want to blend the bead onto the main deck, the two gunwales and onto the stern piece to form a smooth bond.

It is critical to thouroughly work these seams together, this bonds the clay, stregthening the overall model.

=> Add a second bead as needed.

Shape the Stern:

With a flat tool, from the stern to make it appear that it was built with two separate pieces. You will note that I have pushed the bottom of the stern, squaring it off in the aft section.

In addition, I have pinched the bottom edge and the two edges that bond the gunwale/side together to form a "squared" stern.

Later you will add the rudder enclosure, and detail the stern section. For now just make sure it is rounded on top, and squared off on the bottom section of the stern.

Preparing the Quarterdeck:

Add the small 1/2 rounded piece of the quarterdeck. You will notice in the background the pattern for this 1/2 rounded quarterdeck section, in addition to the quarterdeck pattern, and bulkhead pattern.

Smooth the 1/2 rounded piece into the rounded section of the stern, and blend the seam into the two gunwale/sides.

Also use your tools to bond the underside of the this 1/2 rounded section. Since it will be hidden from view, I suggest you add a bead of clay and work it into the seam underneath the quarterdeck section.

Concluding part 2:

Your ship is now prepared to add the removable quarterdeck, which will be outlined in the next installment.

You will notice how the stern has a nice rounded shape, and the small section of the quarterdeck is squared off.

As you form the quarterdeck section, you will custom build the pieces to match this shape.

For now this concludes part TWO of the Pirate Ship build.

In the next installment I will illustrate how to build the removable Quarterdeck section.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/

Building a Pirate Ship - Part 1

2008-12-30T16:59:00.000-08:00

Building a pirate ship by hand.

Introduction:

Steven R. Covey coined the phrase, "start with the end in mind". Very solid advice to build upon, from a wise and scholared man.

The "end" in this case will be a completed Pirate Ship of your own design, built by scratch with your own hands.

So what shall you do if you are still pondoring how to begin, without a clear picture in your minds eye of the "end" goal?

Well, that is precisly what I intend to answer. In order to help you "start with the end in mind" I have provide a picture of the completed Pirate ship project. With this picture, you will now be able to visualize the end. Then you can walk with me as we work together toward the training and instruction that will guide you on the path of creating your very own hand crafted pirate ship. It is now time to roll back the clock, and start a step by step tutorial so that you can begin to build a pirate ship of your own design.

Part 1:

Start with the end in mind.

The ship that I have selected is named "De Wolven", or translated, "The Wolves". This ship is the Sixty First (LXI) ship in my collection. Most of my previous creations have been built by request for private collectors. In addition to the ships that I have sold, several are kept for my own personal collection. My studio office and game room have shelves lined with my fleet of ships, which are used for both display and historical pirate gaming.

De Wolven is a 2-mast Brig, square rigged, with a total of 8-gun ports and a removeable quarter deck that opens to reveal the captains quarters. De Wolven is equiped with up to four swivel/volley guns, two fore and two aft. In addition the sails are rigged red and black to add color contrast. The sails are made of imported Italian canvas, with orginal artwork designs to add the collectible touch to the ship. The ship is 25/28mm scale (or 1:72 to 1:76 scale) and will hold 10-12 figures on the deck, plus deck guns.

With time, and hard work, you CAN build your own pirate ships. Follow along and I will step you through the process.

Getting Started:
First you will need some basic art supplies.

Various sculpting tools, dental tools, or assorted gadgets.
Large rolling pin, and exacto knife or kit.
A small saw blade, contained within the exacto kit.
Sculpting clay, and a work surface.
Wood doll rods and skewers of various sizes.
Canvas for the sails and 110lbs card stock paper for patterns.

I have found that the Super Sculpey brand is an excellent material. It is high quality beige-pink clay that is very workable for modeling and tooling. Once baked in a conventional household oven, it is very strong, and is chip and shatter resistant. It can even be drilled as needed to add any miscellaneous parts. I however prefer to add most of the add-on details, wood dolls, masts, etc. before baking.

Super Sculpey gives a ceramic like finish and takes acrylic paints very well. After a quick primer, you will find that the clay holds the fine details with amazing clarity.
You can pick up all the items you need at your local art store, my preference is to shop at Dick Blick Art supplies, the pricing is fair and they offer coupons for frequent shoppers. It helps that I have one close by too.

Ships Plans:

Begin the build with a set of plans for your ship. For me I only use a few basic patterns, then I create as built parts with clay as I go. In time, I will make a full set of detailed ship plans that can be shared in a PDF format, then printed.

The plans shown to the left are of the hull, gunwale or sides, the stern, quarter deck and bulkhead, and the small forecastle deck.
=> Most other parts must be as built for size and shape as you go.

Cutting the patterns:

Use your large roller pin to flatten the clay. Keep the clay approximatley 1/2-inch thick for the main deck. Gunwales/sides will be the same or thicker.

As you flatten the clay, flip it over often to avoid it from sticking to the work surface, and to ensure you do not have air pockets trapped inside the clay.
=> Notice how the flatten clay is larger than the hull pattern.

The hull pattern has a center fold to help with alignment of the pieces. Flatten the patern on the clay, then use a flat cutting tool to trim the edges of the clay.

Follow this same step with the gunwale/sides. You will need to trace two side, one for the port and the other for the starboard sides of the ship.

For now, I will only cut the three main pieces, however the picture to the left shows the placement of the other pieces, which I will cut out later in the build.

I have found that as you work the clay the parts tend to expand a bit, so for this reason I hold off on cutting the quarter deck, and forecastle (forward) decks.

If you look closely, you can see the center line on the main hull and also you can see a center cross line as well.
=> Retrace these two lines as you work the clay for future reference.

Prepare the pieces for assembly:
Layout each of the two gunwale/sides. The picture to the right is the starboard (right) side of the ship. With the edge of the exacto knife handle, roll over the edge to flatten it.

This flatten edge will be used to form the main deck/hull with the two side of the ship. Notice how I am guiding the edge of the exacto handle and "pinching" the flatten edge to form a 1/2" inch boarder.
=> Do not flatten it too much, this will be used to bond the pieces.

Repeat the step above for the port (left) gunwale/side. Notice how I have placed the pieces, left and right next to the main deck/hull piece.

I find that arranging the pieces as they will be assembled, helps to visualize how the pieces will be placed together.

=> The flatten edges do not need to be perfectly straight.

Assemble the pieces:
Place the first side on the main deck/hull. Line up the flatten edge beginning at the stern (rear) of the ship.

The flatten edge will line up, assuming the edge and the hull are both about 1/2 inch thick.

Press the pieces together as you go, working the clay from the outside of the side/gunwale with your fingers.

Work your fingers along the edge from the outside, firmly pressing the side/gunwale into the main deck/hull piece to bond the two together.

Begin to form the ship:
As you place the second side/gunwale, working the edge as explained above, keep in mind the two bow pieces must meet.

You can form the bow of the ship by turning the two flat edges toward each other, then press them together. Pinch the two pieces together firmly.
=> You do not need to work the bow to much, we will tool it in much greater detail later in the build.

After both peices are formed together, revisit the edge by pressing firmly along the entire edge, port (left) and starboard (right). Work the edge from bow to stern and stern to bow repeatedly to ensure the pieces are bonded together.

Keep an eye on the shape, as you work the clay with your hands, meading and forming the pieces into your ship.
=> Remember to re-trace your center lines as needed.

Concluding part 1:

This concludes part ONE of how to build a Pirate ship. Stay tuned for the next installment, as we will being to "tool" the pieces, trimming any excess clay in some areas and adding clay to strengthen other areas.

At this point, your ship is just beginning to take shape. Soon you be ready to add the stern bulkhead and quarter decks.

Good luck with your first steps into creating your own pirate ship and do not be too critical of yourself, art takes time and hours or patients. Your skill will come over time, with many trials and errors. So if the ship is NOT perfect, keep going forward. We have lots of time to work in the details and make it take shape.

John T Cusack

http://www.battlefieldhobbies.org/