Building a Pirate Ship - Part 10

Part 10:

Masts, sails and rigging.

In this installment of the Pirate ship build, I will cover how to build your masts, sails and rigging.

Cutting the masts:
With either pre-tapered or standard doll rods, measure and cut each of the ships masts. You have the option of purchasing doll rods that are already tapered or you can carve them by hand as I do.

For the De Wolven, two masts are used, with two sails on each mast.
Select a mast dimension that will be strong enough to support the sails and rigging while not looking to big and bulky.
==> I would suggest 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch doll rods. You may cut the mast to height, from 8 inches to 12 inches in length. Size the main mast longer than the foremast and keep them in proportion to the ship, I suggest that you keep the main mast about the same length as the ship.

Adding Spars:
Use large skewer sticks for your spars, cutting the sharp points and tapering both ends slightly. Lay out the spars, and mast in the pattern that they will be assembled.

The length for each cross spar should be in proportion to the mast, with the lower spars longer. For the De Wolven I have prepared two spars for each mast, with the main sail spars slightly longer.

Prepare the Sails:

Using a sheet of artists canvas, measure and cut each sail. For this ship I selected a square rigged sail arrangment.
Fold over about 1/4 to 1/2 inch at the top of each sail. This will later be folded and glue to form a double thick area for sewing. You may use 110lbs card stock paper if canvas is not available. The card stock would not however be as durable as canvas.
=> You should be able to pick up canvas at your local art store. Most sell rolls of canvas cut to order. The canvas used for all my ships is fine Italian canvas which I picked up in Italy while traveling abroad.

Prepare the canvas:

For a more historic ship, you would keep the sails as pure white, or slightly off white. However for a more "Hollywood" approach you may choose to have custom artwork on the sails as with this ship.
If you choose to have white sails, crumble up the canvas and dirty up the sails a bit to give them some character. You may even add battle damage, rips or burn marks.

==>Please, Do not actually burn the canvas.

With sand paper, rough-up the canvas, create a hole, then apply brown/black paint around the worn area. This will make the sail look as if it was in a battle.

Custom Artwork:

Paint any custom artwork on the canvas before attaching them to your spars. For De Wolven, I have made each sail with a common color scheme, with the main sail as the primary artwork with the wolf. Other sails have red, claw marks as if the wolf cut into the canvas.
Be creative with the sails, they will add color and originality to your ship.

Prepare the Hull:

Measure and cut a piece of felt.

Use the type with an adhesive backing. Place the ship on the felt, trace the ships hull and then cut out the shape.

You should cut well inside the line that you traced, so the felt does not overlap onto the sides of the ship.

==> Trim as needed for the right fit.

Attach the sails:

Match up the spars and sails. Spars should be at least 1/4 inch longer on each end then the sail. Fold the top 1/4 inch of the canvas and glue it together. This forms a thick area used to sew. Prepare your thread and use a canvas needle to sew the sails in place. When sewing, use a pattern that you can repeat for each sail. In general I use a pattern with a repeating clove hitch to secure the thread.

NOTE: The pattern used with the De Wolven is rather complex, however if you would like to try it for your ship, here is the explanation that an experienced craftsmen can attempt. Otherwise as stated above, create your own stitch that you can easily repeat for each sail.

The Stitch pattern:

I use a double length thread, with a knot on the end. This way each stitch has two strands of thread. Start in one corner, from the back to conceal the knot. Wrap around the canvas returning to the same hole, dressing the thread over the top. Repeat the stitch, while pulling the thread over the side. The next stitch goes over the spar. Tie off with a double clove hitch knot on the spar. Stitch back through the same hole from the back of the canvas. Stitch around the spar again. Wrap around the thread between the canvas and spar, tying off with a single clove hitch. Begin the next stitch by tying a clove hitch about 3/4 inch down the spar. Repeat as above, starting a new hole about 3/4 inch from the first.

==> Simple right? we'll maybe not so simple. I may double back and do a "sewing 101" post some time in the future. So if your interested, post a comment, let me know this is an area that you need more instruction. I have dozens of Photos which I have not used for this build, that illustrate every detail of the project.

Attach each of the sails:

Sew your stich pattern for each of the spars, attaching each of the matching sails.

Leave the extra thread at the ends of each spar/sail, you can cut them off later, or use them directly for any rigging you plan to add.

Attach the spars:

Using a canvas needle, make a hole from the back in the center of the sail close to the edge. Make a few stitches while wrapping around the canvas before you tie off the spar.

When tying the spar to the mast, wrap the thread around the mast in an organized pattern.

Then with each completed stitch, thread the needle back through the canvas. To tighten the connection between the mast and the spar, you should wrap the thread around the threads that join the two pieces together. Firmly securing the connection, pulling any loose threads tight.

Easier said then done:
I realize that this is a difficult step to illustrate with photos and even more difficult explain in text. You may need to use trial an error on your stitch patterns and thread/connections. Practice on a spare piece of spar/canvas if needed until you find a pattern that works for you.

Attach each Sail:
Repeat for each sail, spacing each spar as designed.
Rigging: The basic rule for rigging is to keep it simple. Assuming the ship is designed for gaming, less rigging is better. Add a few strands as needed to give the ship some character.

==> I would suggest that as a minimum requirement you should secure a line to the end of each bow spar in a triangle pattern, connecting the end of the spar to the mast about an inch above the spar.

The rigging that you add, helps add support, to your masts. If the ship is used for gaming, it will be removed many times during the life of the ship.

You want to be sure that the rigging is tight, yet not strunk like a banjo or it may break with usage.

==> As you tie off each spar and sail connecting them to the mast, and to each other, they will help secure the sails/spars and prevent them from moving.

Creating your Pirate Flag:

If you must, you can use photo shop and print out pirate flags for your ship on 110lbs card stock.

==> I however, being an artist, must paint each one by hand. It's in my nature, even though photo shop flags look rather nice if done correctly.

Lay out a piece of canvas, cut extra banners for the mast and paint each with the pirate flag pattern of your choice.

Once the flag drys, glue the back side and fold the flag over a painted scewer stick, used as your flag pole.

Do the same with the two banners, making sure you wrap around a stick to keep the hole open.

==> you see the banner on the table, ready to be added to the mast.

Concluding part 10:

This will conclude part TEN of the Pirate Ship Build. In the next installment, I will demonstrate the step required to finish the details that will make your ship a completed work of art.

Stay tuned, and by all means if you would like to commission me to build a ship for your pirate fleet, then please let me know.

John T Cusack

www.battlefieldhobbies.org