Creating the gun ports.
Up to this point, I have walked through the steps of building the basic hull, adding the stern, forecastle, spar deck and creating the removeable quarterdeck.
In this installment, I will cover cutting in the gun ports, adding a temporary fore mast and main mast, then the creating of steps leading up to the Quarterdeck. When you get right down to it, the gunports MAKE the ship!
Test figures:
Select a 25mm figure from your collection. If you do not have any figures, pick up a pirate figure from your local Game/Hobby store.
The Figure I use, is primed, however not fully painted. It should however, be mounted on a base like those you may use in your figure collection. The one shown is on a 1 inch masonite base.
In addition, I have selected a deck gun (Cannon) which has a barrel that measures 30mm in length.
Measure the gunwale:
This is by far one of the most important steps. As you work the model, the sides droop, stretch and otherwise become mis-shaped. Througout the entire build, I work and re-work the side of the ships. As you cut gun ports, the side will "sag" even more. So for this reason I stress, this is important, so measure, now then measure again, and again, before you bake the model.
=> I use a doll rod, with a red mark at 1-1/4 inches. Hold the measuring stick all along the side. Correct any areas that are below the mark.
Prepare the main deck:
With your fingures, flatten the main deck to remove any bumps of rounded areas. This step will make the workable main deck surface larger, at the same time ensuring the surface is flat.
You will want to flatten the surface very well, while spot measuring the gunwales throughout this step. I even use the "test" figures since the 1 inch round base helps to level off the main deck surface. All the more reason to use an unpainted figure.
Mark the gun ports: 
Using the deck gun, place and press the barrel into the side of the ship. Take note in the picture you can clearly see the first two locations, to the right of the deck gun piece.
I suggest using an unpainted deck gun too, since clay will often stick to the piece.
Mark out each gun port, for this ship I have eight ports, with four on the port and four on the starboard gunwale.
Cut the gun ports:
Using a flat, square ended tool, press the gun port by forming a square in the side of the ship. While pressing the tool, you will need to place you fingure on the outside of the ship to support the gunwale. Press until you feel the flat, square edge against your finger.
Once you have press "cut" the four sides, push the piece through from the inside. It will make a rough square hole. Take only a moment to square off and clean the gun port. There is still some detail wrok to be done later, so you do not need to have the gun ports perfect at this point.
=> Test fit the deck gun at each gun port hole to ensure it is lined up correctly.
Insert temporary masts: 
Using a short doll rod, insert the foremast, then insert the main mast into the mast supports.
When baking you will use these temporary mast, later I will demonstrate the placement of the actual full lenght masts to provide vertical alignment of the the mast.
=> The doll rods for the foremast can be 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch. The main mast, I like to use a 3/8 inch doll rod, since it will be taller it should be thicker at the base.
Forming the steps:
The steps are only for show, and will not be made for figure placement. Star with a small piece of clay, I like to star with a lump or ball, then cut it down, verse flattening a piece of clay. I find that using a ball of clay is best, carefully worked with your hands to remove any air pockets.
Cut a small square, about 1/2 inch thick by 1 inch square. Cut the piece from as shown, from corner to corner.
Trace the step pattern:
With a flat, square ended tool, lightly trace the step pattern. Don not cut the pattern, only mark it so you can see the pattern on the side of the steps.
=> Nothing too fancy, again this piece is only for show.
Install the steps:
Place the steps against the side/gunwale, with the pattern you traced showing. Then with a flat, squared ended tool, push the pattern into the steps. Do this while working the clay into the side/gunwale seam.
Work the bottom seam, blending the clay into the main deck and sides of the ship.
=> Do not bond the steps with the removable quarterdeck. In fact, remove the quarter deck and work the back seam, forming a clean fit.
- Note: You will recall the beveled edge I had mentioned in a previous step. As I recommended earlier, matching a flat quarterdeck face with a flat backing on the steps will make the removable quarter deck much easier to fit together. I have made a beveled edge, which took many test fittings and work to gain a fit like a "key" for my removable quarterdeck. Since my ships are all hand made and customized, I like to have a "key" type fit for the removable deck. But again, I suggest a flat cut for your first ship.
Concluding Step 4:
This concludes part FOUR of the Pirate ship build. This is the final "rough" build section, before I move on to showing you how to add the fine details that will bring your ship to life.
In the next installment I will cover adding detail to the removable quarterdeck and Captains cabin doorway and port holes.
- How is your build going?
- Post comment on your progress, tips for your fellow craftsmen, comments or question.
As a master craftsmen, teacher and artist myself, I have a goal to learn something new each day. Thus far every day is successful, as I learn every day with every new project. Today could be your day to teach me a tip or technique that you have picked up along the way. Be confident to share what you have learned, it helps build the artists community, and who knows, some day you will be the master, and I but the student.
I hope you are enjoying the instructions, and learning a few tips along the way.
John T Cusack
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