Preparing the hull.
In previous installments, I have walked you through the steps of creating the basic hull, added decks and how to begin the detailing of your ship.
In this installment, I will cover preparing the hull and surface areas for wood grain and planking details.
- As in previous steps, we begin with a picture of the completed ship. Starting with the end in mind.
Adding the rudder:
A minor add is needed before we can prepare the hull.
Cut out an enlongated trapizod for the rudder. Test fit the piece, them trim as needed to allow the the rudder to fit in the bottom section of the stern.
Use the end of one of your tools to adhere the rudder to the stern. I have pushed three distinct groves on the rudder to give it some character.
Cut out an enlongated trapizod for the rudder. Test fit the piece, them trim as needed to allow the the rudder to fit in the bottom section of the stern.
Use the end of one of your tools to adhere the rudder to the stern. I have pushed three distinct groves on the rudder to give it some character.
Prepare the main deck:
By now your main deck should be relativly smooth. However, at the point the deck meets the gunwale, it is most likely rounded.
With a flat edged tool, create a seam to give better definition to the deck, verse the side/gunwale.
Level off any rough areas, scraping off excess clay in very small amounts.
=> Do not shave to deep, it is beter to simply smooth out the surface verse shaving off too much clay to level out the surface.
With a flat edged tool, create a seam to give better definition to the deck, verse the side/gunwale.
Level off any rough areas, scraping off excess clay in very small amounts.
=> Do not shave to deep, it is beter to simply smooth out the surface verse shaving off too much clay to level out the surface.
Add groves to the hull:
With a flat, round edged tool, make groves to represent the planks on the outside of the ship.
=> You may opt to add the groves BEFORE you add the side/gunwales to your ship. If you do however, you may find that as you work the model the groves loose definition.
I have added four groves along the outside hull. One above the gunports, the next centered across the gunports, then two more below the gunports.
I have added four groves along the outside hull. One above the gunports, the next centered across the gunports, then two more below the gunports.
Reshape the gunports:
You will need to touch up the edges of the gunports after you add the groves to the sides of your ship.=> Square them off, however you do not need spend too much time. In Part 8, I will cover adding trim around the gunports.
Blend the groves:
Your groves on the side of the ship may not be perfectly aligned from one side to the other. At the prow of the ship however, you will want the lines to match. Try as best you can to join the lines, so looking at the prow, the groves on the port and starboard sides line up.
I have left the center line of the prow, without lines. This helps blend the groves into a finished look for the prow.
=>Optional: You may add a figure head to the prow, by carving or by adding wood or metal items to the ship. If you add a soft white metal figure, make sure it can withstand the heat of baking. Otherwise test fit the item, remove it then add it again after baking.
Your groves on the side of the ship may not be perfectly aligned from one side to the other. At the prow of the ship however, you will want the lines to match. Try as best you can to join the lines, so looking at the prow, the groves on the port and starboard sides line up.I have left the center line of the prow, without lines. This helps blend the groves into a finished look for the prow.
=>Optional: You may add a figure head to the prow, by carving or by adding wood or metal items to the ship. If you add a soft white metal figure, make sure it can withstand the heat of baking. Otherwise test fit the item, remove it then add it again after baking.
Add the wood grain:
Use your saw tooth blade to add wood grain lines to the outside hull surface. => You may notice, I do not use the exacto saw tooth blade mounted in the exacto handle. Since the saw tooth blade is not sharp, you can use it with or without the exacto handle.Continue adding wood grain on the main deck, inside gunwales, and all other surfaces.
Add planking:
Use the end of a flat (thin) rounded ended tool to trace plank lines. Be creative and add cross lines for each plank.
I keep the planks about 1-2 inched in lenght.
=> With 1:72 scale, 1-2 inches would equate to 6 to 12 foot planks on a full scale ship.
Add wood peg/rivets:
Using a dental compactor tool add the rivets marks, which represent the wood pegs used to connect the planks. This step is really just for looks.
I use two sizes, pictured to the left, with smallest used on most planks. The larger compactor tool, I use on the ends of planks with a single indentation.
Using a dental compactor tool add the rivets marks, which represent the wood pegs used to connect the planks. This step is really just for looks.I use two sizes, pictured to the left, with smallest used on most planks. The larger compactor tool, I use on the ends of planks with a single indentation.
You will notice the ship is no longer the same size as the pattern I started with. This is a result of molding and shaping the hull, deck and side of the ship. The bottom hull/deck is no longer as thick as it was when I started. This however is not a problem, since Super Sculpey clay is very strong when baked. However as build your ship, you should watch for thin spots, adding clay as needed.Concluding part 6:
This will conclude part SIX of the Pirate Ship build.
This will conclude part SIX of the Pirate Ship build.
In the next installment, I will cover the addition of wood and clay parts designed to strengthen the gunwales and mast supports.
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John T. Cusack
Www.battlefieldhobbies.org
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